January 28, 2008 @ 2112
South Pacific Dispatch in the middle of Cyclone Gene
Lalati Resort, Beqa Island, Fiji
Aloha and Bula Vinaka. . . . I just made an entry into my Iphone about the cyclone; of necessity a short one since typing on it is still not as easy as a full keyboard. I am listening to Radio FM 96 to an absolute idiotic airhead of an announcer with her full on Western bullshit pitter-patter (just as bad as or worse than in the West). Since we are in the middle of Cyclone Gene (and I hate that stupid name too come to think of it!) it is always good to hear what is going on. Contrast my position to the gang on the mainland, flooding, out of power and so on and so forth. I am on the ‘island of the firewalkers’ at an incredible resort (in trade I pay for basics, spruce up the clinic and see patients) where I have generator power (twin diesels, one as backup), ate an incredible meal and am in the middle of cyclonic winds. . . . all of this incredible comfort (apologies for using incredible so much in this dispatch but there it is alright!?).
Last time was in 1986, I forget the Cyclone’s name but I was on the Provincial (much like the American County’s) Emergency Response Team. Then, like now, it was mainly a matter of waiting the storm out, damage assessment and the inevitable piecemeal response all depending on the level of damage to homes, roads, power and other infrastructure. I got a lot wetter in that one. Of course the night is still young but I am beat. Tired from the crossing (more on that below) and put a couple of hours in on cleaning the clinic and sorting through meds and tossing expired ones. For example, nitro expired by two years – never used of course since no qualified personnel are here to dispense it. We have lots of Levaquin PO, a heavy hitter out here. Have not seen Hansen’s Disease yet but there was a case in the Yasawa’s that I would have loved to see. Someone mentioned Levaquin so hope I remember to check PubMed for that one. I heard some Elephantiasis is around so really am excited about observing that and checking out what the process is and proscribed treatment. I hope to get Rick Flinders and his ‘gang’ interested in working with the Loloma Foundation at some point. They would love it and the experience is incredible.
Winds and rain are heavy and the roof resonates beautifully with the sound of the rain and occasional “WHAM” from a branch or even a coconut. I still reflexively remember to watch my head in the wind under a coconut tree . . . I was quite proud some of those reflexes are still with me! Of course my sea legs long disappeared. The at least one hour crossing was one of the roughest I have ever been on! Even Linda rated it an 8 out of 10 (0 being like glass and a 10 either drowning like a rat, yeah baby or not even making the attempt?) and she lived here for 10 years and crossed all the bloody time! Better to have been the captain on a larger sailing boat but our trip was relatively safe, an aluminum catamaran dive boat powered by Twin 150 horsepower outboards. This was all in 15-20 foot swells, all white capped and incredible amounts of drift and spray over the entire vessel. The bow was covered now and then with waves and then we would surf off the crest and “WHAM” down into the trough and repeat, repeat, repeat. One more hour and the fun would have ceased for me. As it was we were all completely soaked through and through, as it is an open cabin except for the wheelhouse and covered a bit by plastic curtains from the wheelhouse back. Photos later I hope! I could not safely get my camera out for it this time.
High tide tonight around 12 so flooding on the main Island of Viti Levu will hit then. The center of the cyclone crosses the island tonight, guess it is a good thing I am out here. Radio Fiji has people calling in having Cyclone parties – like I said (and I remember this) there is not a lot more to do if you are already prepared. Although we have power I have the clinic set up for emergencies (injuries and so forth mainly for tomorrow) and a quick trauma pack in my backpack, headlight, two radios, four flashlights, Leatherman, got to have camera and so on and so forth. A quick note on mobile phones here, they are very common, cheap to buy (bought one for $80 Fijian, about $50 US or so) and you prepay. They are very dependable, way better than landlines. Fiji is typical in this development and is much the same as many other developing nations. Mobile networks are used to send money, text, photos and more.
Dinner was outrageous. Some type of very tender steak with mushroom sauce, steamed broccoli, a twice baked potato and the finale – incredibly moist, delicious banana-chocolate cake with shredded coconut baked into it. Please, hurt me like this all the time. I managed not to eat it all believe it or not. Hmmm, think it will be easy to recruit people to work on these trips with descriptions like that?
There is a very nice Yacht tied up in the Bay in front of the resort but I am betting it will be aground by the morning. They have a good sea anchor and a hurricane anchor out but in sustained winds of now 65-85 kph (work the equivalent out yourself people!) and gust up to 140 kph I am fairly sure it will drag. Too bad, it is a beautiful double masted yacht and brand new from what I hear (friends of the Lalati Resort owners).
Linda Kwasny (former owner of Lalati Resort that built this place from the ground up) is one of the board members of the Loloma Foundation. She told me about a seamount about one and a half hour boat rides straight out into the ocean. One of the better dive spots in Fiji it is about 200 meters across and at low tide you can almost stand on it. It is like a large mushroom and hit about 600 feet deep over the edge. Someday I am going to snorkel and dive it.
Overall I am exhausted. This is in part physical and is due to the constant travel and lots of work. The climate is hot and humid (great!) but wears you down when you don’t pace yourself like the locals! The mental part is exhausting too. I had the most cultural experience of everyone in the group and I felt like for the first time I was really recognized for that because I was so useful. My language skills were of great assistance also. That takes of a lot of concentration and mental energy – we all commented upon that. Since somehow I am going to come back more often I hope that it will become easier.
Coming back more often. . . . to Fiji and other parts of the Pacific. I’ll take some help on this one people. How to live in California part of the time, work there and make the time to be able to work in the South Pacific. I mean just look at the time I am having here. I have lived more in three weeks with what is happening then I feel like I have in a few years! It is just so weird at times.
I know this entry is a long one. If you have read this far than I’m doubly grateful and thank you. I think when I go on like this it is because I have done so much, or so much is going on that there is a lot to process mentally. Putting hand to keyboard helps my reflection and search for meaning amidst the elemental struggle taking place outside this cabin. It is such a beautiful thing to behold this life of ours. Despite whatever pain of our own individual lives where ever they may be on this planet there is also that essential wonder, even in the most infinitesimal of moments. We are doubly lucky to even be able to conceive of such things when there are those whose every thought is directed toward not getting hacked to death (Kenya), or the search for clean or water of any sort and food.
Loloma Foundation may have a shot at a mission in Malawi. I am on that list. Thanks for reading and best regards to whoever reads this. . . . I wish you happiness.
David
Postscript: I am not bothering to edit that much at this point in time lest it destroy the immediacy of my thoughts. When time permits I may go back. For now I am looking after the spelling and basic sentence construction.
