Return

Bula & yes I have returned. Got into Los Angeles an hour ago. I'm
waiting for my Horizon Air flight now. Tired, sad, but happy too that
I am back to change course and carpe diem.
Thanks for reading.
David

Morning Reflections on Tropical Sunday Morning

February 3, 2008 @ 1115
South Pacific Dispatch / Suva Motor Inn, Suva, Fiji

Yes, I do love being able to write from a faraway place that I am not from. I am having coffee (from Papua New Guinea) and watching the BBC World News that absolutely puts CNN to shame most of the time. I do like CNN International and the special reports.

Things look on track for my departure. Weather is good and no cyclones on the horizon at this point in time. I’ll confirm with Air Pacific today or tomorrow and set up the transport to Nadi which is about a 3 hour drive. I have seen the bus and it is a huge and comfortable bus . . . a far cry from ‘back in the day’ (1985 – 1987) when it took 4- 5 hours in a cramped open air bus. The old buses are still around and I love the fact there are no windows. If it rains you simply roll down a vinyl tarp and everyone helps hold it inside.

That cooperation, at least for the most part is much of what typifies Fiji to the outsider. Some of this is of absolute necessity, i.e., it is a must to cooperate when unloading a container in the rain and mud and you do not have a forklift and a paved road to use it on. So when we unloaded the container of medical supplies in Nausori, we had to use the ‘human forklift’ and lift the pallets with people.

Some may find it interesting (others terribly boring!) or surprising that I am tired and yes, am actually looking forward to going home. I do have a deep love for Fiji but it is not my home and my mission here this time is complete for all intents and purposes. I have a life that needs tending to back in America, people that I love, mail being saved and my love for and addiction to the New York Times and other news. I can easily envision a life where I can live in America yet spend months at a time overseas doing medical work in different places. I could work at a hospital while in America and then work overseas too.

I just heard the BBC news call Indonesia’s ex-president a great leader. What a joke. The CIA and other various U.S. government agencies were completely complicit in assisting Suharto in a reign of terror. He was a joke to many Indonesians that I have spoken to. He personally enriched himself, his family and many of his cronies from the brutal repression of his people in the name of anticommunism. I don’t think he was an American puppet but probably very good at survival and manipulating the Americans into giving what he wanted. Much of my knowledge is based on a recently published history of the CIA. I would like to read a more specific history so eventually will have to look one up.

Thanks for reading.

David

Postscript: I remember sitting with the Fijian guys from Lalati and hearing them sing around the tanoa (the kava bowl). There was a song just about their island of Beqa and each village was mentioned in the song. Fijian songs are usually about connections, to their village, to each other, to the land. It is not usually songs about anger, or alienation. There may be sadness but it is about a broken heart from love, separation from a loved one, departure from home, an island that you have come to love. Other songs are simply about fun.

Back in Suva Second Go Around

February 2, 2008 @ 2350
South Pacific Dispatches / Suva Motor Inn, Suva, Fiji
I just returned from dinner at Fong’s Chinese which is a great place to eat. Still have to disconfirm the use of MSG or not at this point as I did not think to ask at the time. I was too hungry as all I had today was tea in Suvavou with biscuits or as the Fijian say, bisketi. I much prefer the sound of bisketi! I took some of my ex-in-laws to dinner with me and afterwards went to see No Country for Old Men. I loved the movie, especially the soundscape which was very distinct, spare and beautiful. A bit of a confusing movie at times and I shall have to see it again to deepen my pea brain analysis of a very complex bit of filmmaking. Overall however, I loved it despite the violence.

How normal it seems does it not? Dinner and a movie? Yet I treasured the normalcy of that for myself this evening. I am sleeping where and when I want, eating what I wish, I am very clean after a long hot shower and have been quite happy in my nest of a hotel room. Lonely a bit but great for introspection, reflection, review and analysis and most of all the silence, the space to do nothing, think nothing.

I bought a few groceries this evening for tomorrow so I could enjoy a nice breakfast and coffee for tomorrow. I shopped at MH’s which stands for Morris Hedstrom. The old store burned down over 10 years ago and it just reopened about one month ago. Fiji time anyone?

I attempted to get online at the Tanoa hotel but the internet there is down, both the wired and wireless. I tried Skynet Internet Café, logged in through my U3 Sancruiser Titanium USB drive. It runs a shell on the machine and protects the key data behind a virus and malware shield (Avast). It worked as advertised, warning me of a trojan horse, probably a key logger program so I terminated the session immediately. I don’t have a lot of valuable data but I protect it. The USB drive was an excellent purchase. The frustrating thing is that I have a lot of blog entries written and pictures to be posted yet finding reliable access is a great annoyance. I caught a whiff of a network in Suvavou Village on my Iphone last time I was there about two weeks ago so if I visit tomorrow will try to hop on the network – I was shocked to find it there. Isa Fiji, how it has changed! Even this morning, waiting for my commuter boat for the one hour crossing to the mainland I saw children and adults go to the seawall to text and / or call people. People text a lot! Saves money over a phone call. You can add minutes at almost any store – I bought additional minutes with my groceries this evening.

Another big change is the level of supposed sophistication in the way people are talking, dressing and acting in the city. More nightclubs and I was even blatantly propositioned by at least 3-4 prostitutes on the walk home even though it was obvious I was trying to avoid them like the proverbial plague.

Less than two days left in Fiji. I will spend Sunday and most of Monday here. I want to get another Bula or Aloha Shirt, maybe another sulu, Fijian Music CD’s and so on and so forth. I bought some nice curry supplies today so I am looking forward to making curry next week.

It just turned February 3 so I will sign off here. Thank you for reading.
David

The classic Kava Photo

 

Drinking Kava at Rukua Village two days ago. Drank till 12, up at 5 a.m. to catch the commuter boat to the mainland. Good fun!

Back in Suva

February 2, 2008 @ 1340
South Pacific Dispatch / Suva Motor Inn, Suva, Fiji

So roundabout I have come once again to the Suva Motor Inn. It is funny to me, perhaps to be expected however, that this is the loneliest part of my trip. Neither coming nor quite yet going I feel I am just at that in between place, hovering, waiting and suspended. My short term course is set and clear yet the long-term is uncertain, full of longing, excitement, sadness, doubt, and unknowingness. Being comfortable with that part of it is what is hard for me at times. I wonder about others.
The rest of the Loloma Foundation ‘gang’ are all home in America, save our stalwart leader, Linda Kwasny. They have all been a joy to work with and to spend luxurious time with them after our work day is complete.

I left Lalati Resort on Beqa Island yesterday and spent the night in Rukua Village on the other side of Beqa. My friend in Santa Rosa, Sailasa Rogogo is from that village. Interestingly enough, my fellow Peace Corps Volunteer, Chris Schorn (now in Seattle) lived in Rukua and as I was drinking kava with the boys last night it was a full on reminiscing of Chris and Sai stories over the years. I even saw an old foto of Chris and that brought back many memories.

It seems that everywhere I have gone brings back a rush of memories. I drank kava till 1200 pm last night, got up at 0500 and left on the boat at 0645 for an hour’s boat ride to Navua. From there I caught an ‘Express’ bus (read slow and maddening into that but some things never change!) and got off in Suvavou Village just past Lami. Suvavou is where my ex-in laws live so it was good to see them again. Now I am so tired and lonely that I am just going to take a shower and a long nap. I am so exhausted from working, the constant travel, and the emotional demands from memory and by just being alone in what is still to me, in the end, a foreign culture. I slept on the floor last night with a bit of foam pad but out of deference to me the boys lit mosquito coils but I was eaten up anyway. I usually travel with my mosquito net but had left it behind in Suva because I have not needed it. They also closed up the windows so I was dead of the heat and sweated all night.

So why write this? This is what it is like when you have to travel so much here. You lack control over your immediate environment to a large extent and are subject to the whims and vicissitudes’ of those around you and the travel gods. I could have stayed at Lalati Resort which is unbelievably comfortable and beautiful but I had to spend at least one night in the village. I did this not only for myself but for my friend Sai. Resorts insulate you so much from the people and this was my first time to experience resort life. I loved spending time with the staff, drinking kava and so on and so forth but also enjoyed the great food, service and other benefits of resort stays.

The last four days we just worked in the clinic. I drained an abscess on an eight year old that had been ‘drained’ in December. It was still very infected and very painful. One of the primary challenges here is keeping things clean so it is very possible that they let it get dirty and it healed over without sufficiently draining and the infection being stopped. Sterility is a joke in the tropics, in the bush with insufficient control over the environment. We called a Doctor in San Diego (or emailed him) about what antibiotics might be best for this foot abscess.

Plan for today and tomorrow is to simply rest. I have a few small things to do, recharge my phone with more minutes (I simply love the pay as you go plan they have with Vodaphone Fiji). I might buy a few more shirts since the three I brought got trashed since they were so old. On Monday I catch the 1630 bus to Nadi and my flight leaves at 1030 that night. I arrive into Los Angeles, wait for a bit and transfer to Horizon Air (Alaska Air) for my flight to Santa Rosa.

Although I have loved my trip I am so very tired and look forward to seeing those I love once again and fold them into my arms. Sometimes not knowing what to do is a blessing. I have a day to recover, unpack, clean and then off to work at MS II if I still have a job, if the Hospital is still open and on and on, ad nauseum (sp?).
Thanks for reading this far. Will try to get to a computer and post this with a few fotos later or tomorrow.

David

Work

Now this is what I call going to work in style! Need more of this and
not less. Taken in the Yasawa Islands last week. I'll be seeing most
of you soon!

Ratu Tevita, na Vu ni Wai!

South Pacific Dispatch / Cyclone Gene

January 28, 2008 @ 2112
South Pacific Dispatch in the middle of Cyclone Gene
Lalati Resort, Beqa Island, Fiji

Aloha and Bula Vinaka. . . . I just made an entry into my Iphone about the cyclone; of necessity a short one since typing on it is still not as easy as a full keyboard. I am listening to Radio FM 96 to an absolute idiotic airhead of an announcer with her full on Western bullshit pitter-patter (just as bad as or worse than in the West). Since we are in the middle of Cyclone Gene (and I hate that stupid name too come to think of it!) it is always good to hear what is going on. Contrast my position to the gang on the mainland, flooding, out of power and so on and so forth. I am on the ‘island of the firewalkers’ at an incredible resort (in trade I pay for basics, spruce up the clinic and see patients) where I have generator power (twin diesels, one as backup), ate an incredible meal and am in the middle of cyclonic winds. . . . all of this incredible comfort (apologies for using incredible so much in this dispatch but there it is alright!?).

Last time was in 1986, I forget the Cyclone’s name but I was on the Provincial (much like the American County’s) Emergency Response Team. Then, like now, it was mainly a matter of waiting the storm out, damage assessment and the inevitable piecemeal response all depending on the level of damage to homes, roads, power and other infrastructure. I got a lot wetter in that one. Of course the night is still young but I am beat. Tired from the crossing (more on that below) and put a couple of hours in on cleaning the clinic and sorting through meds and tossing expired ones. For example, nitro expired by two years – never used of course since no qualified personnel are here to dispense it. We have lots of Levaquin PO, a heavy hitter out here. Have not seen Hansen’s Disease yet but there was a case in the Yasawa’s that I would have loved to see. Someone mentioned Levaquin so hope I remember to check PubMed for that one. I heard some Elephantiasis is around so really am excited about observing that and checking out what the process is and proscribed treatment. I hope to get Rick Flinders and his ‘gang’ interested in working with the Loloma Foundation at some point. They would love it and the experience is incredible.

Winds and rain are heavy and the roof resonates beautifully with the sound of the rain and occasional “WHAM” from a branch or even a coconut. I still reflexively remember to watch my head in the wind under a coconut tree . . . I was quite proud some of those reflexes are still with me! Of course my sea legs long disappeared. The at least one hour crossing was one of the roughest I have ever been on! Even Linda rated it an 8 out of 10 (0 being like glass and a 10 either drowning like a rat, yeah baby or not even making the attempt?) and she lived here for 10 years and crossed all the bloody time! Better to have been the captain on a larger sailing boat but our trip was relatively safe, an aluminum catamaran dive boat powered by Twin 150 horsepower outboards. This was all in 15-20 foot swells, all white capped and incredible amounts of drift and spray over the entire vessel. The bow was covered now and then with waves and then we would surf off the crest and “WHAM” down into the trough and repeat, repeat, repeat. One more hour and the fun would have ceased for me. As it was we were all completely soaked through and through, as it is an open cabin except for the wheelhouse and covered a bit by plastic curtains from the wheelhouse back. Photos later I hope! I could not safely get my camera out for it this time.

High tide tonight around 12 so flooding on the main Island of Viti Levu will hit then. The center of the cyclone crosses the island tonight, guess it is a good thing I am out here. Radio Fiji has people calling in having Cyclone parties – like I said (and I remember this) there is not a lot more to do if you are already prepared. Although we have power I have the clinic set up for emergencies (injuries and so forth mainly for tomorrow) and a quick trauma pack in my backpack, headlight, two radios, four flashlights, Leatherman, got to have camera and so on and so forth. A quick note on mobile phones here, they are very common, cheap to buy (bought one for $80 Fijian, about $50 US or so) and you prepay. They are very dependable, way better than landlines. Fiji is typical in this development and is much the same as many other developing nations. Mobile networks are used to send money, text, photos and more.

Dinner was outrageous. Some type of very tender steak with mushroom sauce, steamed broccoli, a twice baked potato and the finale – incredibly moist, delicious banana-chocolate cake with shredded coconut baked into it. Please, hurt me like this all the time. I managed not to eat it all believe it or not. Hmmm, think it will be easy to recruit people to work on these trips with descriptions like that?

There is a very nice Yacht tied up in the Bay in front of the resort but I am betting it will be aground by the morning. They have a good sea anchor and a hurricane anchor out but in sustained winds of now 65-85 kph (work the equivalent out yourself people!) and gust up to 140 kph I am fairly sure it will drag. Too bad, it is a beautiful double masted yacht and brand new from what I hear (friends of the Lalati Resort owners).

Linda Kwasny (former owner of Lalati Resort that built this place from the ground up) is one of the board members of the Loloma Foundation. She told me about a seamount about one and a half hour boat rides straight out into the ocean. One of the better dive spots in Fiji it is about 200 meters across and at low tide you can almost stand on it. It is like a large mushroom and hit about 600 feet deep over the edge. Someday I am going to snorkel and dive it.

Overall I am exhausted. This is in part physical and is due to the constant travel and lots of work. The climate is hot and humid (great!) but wears you down when you don’t pace yourself like the locals! The mental part is exhausting too. I had the most cultural experience of everyone in the group and I felt like for the first time I was really recognized for that because I was so useful. My language skills were of great assistance also. That takes of a lot of concentration and mental energy – we all commented upon that. Since somehow I am going to come back more often I hope that it will become easier.

Coming back more often. . . . to Fiji and other parts of the Pacific. I’ll take some help on this one people. How to live in California part of the time, work there and make the time to be able to work in the South Pacific. I mean just look at the time I am having here. I have lived more in three weeks with what is happening then I feel like I have in a few years! It is just so weird at times.

I know this entry is a long one. If you have read this far than I’m doubly grateful and thank you. I think when I go on like this it is because I have done so much, or so much is going on that there is a lot to process mentally. Putting hand to keyboard helps my reflection and search for meaning amidst the elemental struggle taking place outside this cabin. It is such a beautiful thing to behold this life of ours. Despite whatever pain of our own individual lives where ever they may be on this planet there is also that essential wonder, even in the most infinitesimal of moments. We are doubly lucky to even be able to conceive of such things when there are those whose every thought is directed toward not getting hacked to death (Kenya), or the search for clean or water of any sort and food.

Loloma Foundation may have a shot at a mission in Malawi. I am on that list. Thanks for reading and best regards to whoever reads this. . . . I wish you happiness.

David

Postscript: I am not bothering to edit that much at this point in time lest it destroy the immediacy of my thoughts. When time permits I may go back. For now I am looking after the spelling and basic sentence construction.

South Pacific Dispatches. . . . Beqa Island, Fiji

Bula Vinaka and aloha from the island of Beqa. Linda Kwasny is the former owner of Lalati Resort and one of the board members of the Loloma Foundation. Lalati still maintains a small clinic here (with Air Conditioning no less!) and we are cleaning that up and checking medication expiry dates. Later today we'll start seeing some of the staff and then full on tomorrow with the surrounding villages.

Cyclone Gene is thankfully on the way out! I have a few blog entries and photos waiting on my computer (I am using Lalati's Mac right now with a Satellite uplink) and will post those when I can. All flights in and out of Fiji are canceled at this writing and getting over here yesterday was an exercise in carefully controlled violence and great seamanship on the part of our crew. I have been in some rough seas before in Fiji but as Linda said to me, on a scale of 0 - 10 with 10 the worst and unpassable, this was an 8! Yes sireee baby, it was an E-ticket ride. At the end, near shore I just jumped and swam in since I was completely soaked anyway.

The resort is on twin diesel generators anyway so we have power and all of that. The mainland is flooded with no power so there you have it. Roads are flooded and not much is moving. Lots of cyclone parties over there I bet?

I am not even sure at this point if I will be able to visit my friend Sai's (living in Santa Rosa) village Rukua here on Beqa. The trail over may be impassable and the sea is a joke - just too dangerous.

That is about it for now kids. Special bula and aloha to my family, hugs to all.
Thanks for reading the continuing adventures of yours truly.

David

Cyclone Gene

January 28, 2008
Beqa Island, Fiji

Hell of a rough crossing today from the mainland. Not sick but 15-20
ft swells so completely soaked by docking time so I jumped & swam in!
Good fun. Sustained winds up to 90 kph with gust to 140 kph. Not sure
when this email will get out as I am on my iPhone. Can't leave island
for at least three days now anyway but Lalati resort has satellite so
may be able to update via that link. My Fiji Vodaphone mobile has no
signal right here but maybe on the beach or hills later.

Incredible resort once again have to see to believe. Spent a few hours
cleaning and restocking meds in the very nice clinic!

Cyclone Gene won't make a direct hit on us at least but close. Lalati
Resort is built to a level of Category Eight cyclone. Been through
this before and usually don't worry till the roof starts to peel off
or it floods (but a reef here as in much of Fiji stops most of the
surge).

Nothing to do but read, listen, watch a movie, wait and enjoy till the
coconuts start pummeling the roof. Will attempt fotos tomorrow.

Thanks for reading.

D.

www.davidmichaelmccullough.net
davidmccullough@gmail.com
+1 707 758 3358

South Pacific Dispatch / Navutu Stars Resort, Yaqueta Island, Fiji

January 25, 2008
Navutu Stars Resort, Yaqueta Island, Yasawa Island Group, Fiji

We have been here since Monday and this is really the first opportunity to write more extensively about the last few days. This is largely due to being so busy with a heavy schedule of going all over the place. We rise relatively late for US time, about 7:30 or 8 a.m. and leave around 9 or 9:30 a.m. via boat, usually about a half hour to 45 minute ride. We return late, around 5:30 – 6:30 but sometimes earlier. We have our presentation of yaqona (or kava) to the village, about 45 minutes and then set up shop for primary health care. We see about 100 people a day with two people on intake (weight, height, waist, blood pressure, chief complaint) and 3 doctors and me doing the diagnosis and treatment. I am very familiar with much of what we see, i.e., a lot of dermatological issues, hypertension, diabetes and so forth. I’ll kick a few issue up the line and we all get together to consult and learn – that is what I enjoy the most. I got to treat a few great wounds, boils, cuts and so forth. It is amazing what pain level the Fijian will accept with VERY little complaint or hint that it is so bad.
Another factor in living here is just the climate. Beautiful yes but the heat and humidity force you to slow down somewhat and that is just part of living here. Hard to get used to when you are used to a higher level of productivity and have to put out so much on a daily basis. Fiji time is real . . . with all the good and frustrations associated with it.
The last two days a few of us have been sick (flulike, vomiting, diarrhea, fever of up to 101F, chills, shaking). One of the owners of the resort was sick with the same thing the day we came in but there is no clear link. Today the group went off to another village for just three hours. I am staying here to treat two patients from Yaqueta Village. One had a boil on his Left little toe that became infected. He has had it for almost two months and by the time we saw it we all agree there is a strong chance of bone involvement. I irrigated the hell out of it, washed/soaked it with Hibiclens (a surgical scrub), did some minor debridement, packed it with some antibiotic ointment and wrapped it up. The Docs brought some Septra so we gave him a 14 day course of that. He is supposed to return today so here I wait.
I’ll get to see the operations of the resort today and by the way I most highly recommend the Navutu Stars Resort! They are great owners, very plush accommodations, great staff and very wonderful food. The owners are an Italian couple, Frederick and Magdalena and they have twins who are named Isabella and Giovanni. He is originally from Rome and she from Florence. He worked as a stockbroker in London for 10 years and her as an art dealer. They have owned this place for about four years but since they now have new twins, about 1 year old they are starting to think about their education and may move on at some point when the children are older. I plan on asking her advice on how to help my good friend Bill Cutler on promoting and getting wider exposure for his incredible art and talent.
I know that living here is a challenge but that eventually it becomes home. I don’t think I would want to live here full time but part of me does. The other part loves California, the coast, the Ridge Ranch, the town where I live, the people. I have always been restless and I guess, in my heart of hearts a wanderer of some sort. Maybe this is due to growing up as an Air Force brat, living around the world, an endless whirlwind of new places, Air Force Bases. Yet that being said it was not like that for a long time, till about 10 years old I think. But it always felt like I should be ready to leave, to pack up, and get excited about what new thing was around the corner. This is a very personal, deep down, gut level analysis and I have no ‘hard’ data. I have read some books about military children and my experience runs true across the board for many of them. I don’t think that my desire to see the world is a reflection of an inability to settle in a community and contribute – I try to do that no matter where I am. It is just that for me the wider world always beckons. I see global issues and while I may rage at my inability to affect some of the larger issues I will attempt to do what little I can . . . that is my ideal.
So before I go off and get all idealistic and ranting (or am I too late?!) I had better sign off here for the moment. Thanks for reading; I always appreciate it if anyone reads this!
David

Navutu Stars Resort, Yasawa Islands, Fiji

Here are a few photos from our stay here. Dinner is soon, Lobster Curry with coconut milk sauce so I hope you are now hungry and jealous. A hell of a lot of hard work but this is a very rewarding trip.

We leave tomorrow for Nadi and the group leaves for LAX. Linda and I then leave for Beqa Island, Island of the Fire Walkers (really) where I will stay at her former resort and do medical work for three days and also spend a night at Rukua Village where my good friend Sai in Santa Rosa is from.

After that, on to Suva for a few days to visit with friend and then a long flight to the United States to LAX and a short hop to Santa Rosa, California. Thanks for reading.

David

PS: I have few entries done in Word 2007 that I cannot upload so I will post them later after I convert them. So much for new software from Microsoft. The copy of Word on this machine is in Italian since the owners are Italian. Love it.

Navutu Stars Resort, Yaqueta Island, Yasawa Islands , Fiji

Bula, my first access for awhile and unfortunately not very long as I (and others) are sick with some kind of stomach flu. Better now but still very weak. I was up all night and most of today but I hope on the road to recovery. Just absolutely exhausted. Of course, once you see photos of this place any sympathy you may feel will disappear quickly.

We have done some village primary care the last few days and our last is tomorrow (if I can stop being so damn sick!) Food and accommodations are fantastic and the beauty is unmatched.

I have satellite access via the resort and if I get online again tonight will upload some photos. Won't write much more as being sick colors too much. I am just so glad I came and took this opportunity to do something important.

Thanks for reading,

David

Isa lei na Kaivulag . . .

. . . gang member Linda, just before she was forcibly ejected from the
aircraft - for acting out! We let Matt stay on board the flight to
Nadi. Last we saw, Linda was sprawled on the runway, Fiji Bitter Beer
in hand, crying out, Fiji I love you Full Speed no Brakes!

Late, at Rex Horoi's house

. . . Drinking lots of great French and Australian wine on a warm
tropical night. As I mentioned before, Rex is the Solomon Islands
former Ambassador to the United Nations. He has to be one of the
friendliest, unassuming, artifice free and powerfully dynamic people I
have had the honor to meet. I hope to meet with him again.

Fiji Photos of the Loloma Foundation Medical Mission

Ni sa Bula Vinaka,

http://picasaweb.google.com/davidmccullough

Check this link for photos. I am uploading but the connection is very slow. I have not yet labeled or organized so for now you will have to guess at what you are seeing. Hope you all enjoy seeing them. As I can I will include more directly with the blog from my iphone. I cannot even connect at all with my Iphone here so ATT will have to help me with that as it is supposed to! Cheers for now my gang in America!

Thanks for reading,

David

Late Saturday Afternoon at the Internet Lounge

. . . in Suva, Fiji at the Tanoa House, a very luxurious hotel with a great restaurant with access at $11.00 Fijian an hour. A bit pricey in my book as I have so much data to upload but here I am, right now, in this world and not any other.

Went to Suva Market today, loaded up on almost two Kg's of kava, known locallly as yaqona. I bought waka, which means the root and is the strongest. We will make a sevusevu to the village chiefs up in the Yasawa Islands. Bought fruit, lots of it, coconut oil scented with makasoi that smells of heaven and love strewn beaches and those soft caressing hands, oops, I mean tropical breezes!

So at this moment I am in the kaivulagi world of high tech net connections and zinging data slinging itself around the globe to all of you. I'll post photos to a public Picasa Account and try to get them organized later, just want to upload to back them up in multiple areas. So I shall pen off here and get to work!

Moce and thank you for reading.

Ratu Te (as they sometimes call me here in jest of course!)

Saturday Off! Suva Market, Kava and this Blog at last.

Saturday, January 19, 2008 / 1100

Suva Motor Inn, Suva, Fiji

Finally a day of rest and time to accomplish some task heretofore neglected . . . like posting to this blog, hitting the Suva City Market, buy our sevusevu (the bundle of dried yaqona [kava] roots) which we use in our ritual greetings and asking if we can help the two villages we will visit in the Yasawa Islands located in the Northwest part of Fiji. They are some of the most beautiful islands in the world. If you google the Yasawa’s and use the Images tab you will find beautiful photographs. Once I return I hope to post some images on google earth using panoramio.com (spelling?) to tie the photo to the location of where we are at. We will be staying at the Navutu Stars resort at night which I hear is very nice. I actually hope to spend at least a few nights in the village like I used to in the past. There is nothing like being in the village – frankly, the westerner gets very spoiled because still, for the most part, you are an oddity. A foreigner is still an exception because I guess that most tourists are either uncomfortable or uneasy about staying in the village. Of course when most are paying a huge sum you wish to take advantage of every luxury. Staying in the village for me is a luxury in a sense but then again I feel at home there. Guess I am beating this to death but it is a reflection of my own attempts at sussing this issue out and coming to a more in depth understanding.

Later today we’ll visit friends at the Colonial War Memorial Hospital so I am very excited about that. We leave for the Yasawa Islands on Sunday but a hurricane is headed at us so the ferry crossing is delayed due to some very rough seas. Hopefully our medical mission will not turn into a full scale relief mission (I have not checked with Fiji weather today but the wind is up). After my return from the Yasawa’s I got the invite to go to the island of Beqa (just Southwest of Suva), the island of the firewalkers! There is a resort that Linda Kwasny (who started the Loloma Foundation) used to own. Instead of the $400 (US) a night I’ll pay $125 thereabouts which is basically the cost of food, boat transport and so on and so forth. It is supposed to be quite luxurious. I will work during part of the day seeing patients and play the rest on the reef. I am also excited about what kind of medical issues I will get to see.

My friend in Santa Rosa, California by the name of Sai is from Beqa, the village of Rukua. I brought his wife a package and she is going to arrange a night at Rukua Village for me so that is very, very nice. Found out Sai is actually a Ratu, or Chief so it is a huge honor for me to go to his village.

After a few days there I’ll return to Suva to see a few friends – Robin Taylor formerly of the University of the South Pacific, my ex in-laws (whom I will take a sevusevu today) and get ready to leave for the United States. Somehow, upon my return, I hope to take a trip outside of my area at least once a month . . . it is my hope that this will help me to not feel so restless all the time. I think that exposure to new places, even if familiar culture can do a lot to keep one stimulated / engaged – thus happier? We shall see.

I’ll pen off here as they say in Fiji and add to this later. Thanks for reading and moce mada!

David

Fiji Time, Shopping, Short Entry

Friday, January 18, 2008 (late entry on Jan 19)

Suva Motor Inn, Suva, Fiji

It is only a few days since we arrived in Fiji yet as usual it feels as though we have lived more in those few short days then months wherever we came from. After some discussion we all agreed that this is difficult if not impossible to explain to those who have not experienced it. None of us, least of all I, are naïve enough to think that this is always the case once you are living permanently in one place. The idea of having such ‘fullness’ is in part that is due to the unpredictable nature of life here in the sense that things may or may not work out as you intend them to. Then there is the infamous idea of ‘Fijian Time’ that is called the same thing in different locales the world over . . . the idea that things will happen when they happen and there is nothing that one can do (sometimes) to make it different or to happen when you wish it to.

We have unloaded two 40 foot containers and one 30 foot container of $2,000,000 (U.S.) of medical supplies, unpackaged most of it and repackaged it for redistribution to outer islands villages, health clinics, infirmaries and hospitals. We carried a bunch of anesthesia drugs to our dinner last night and gave them to the Chief Anesthesiologist of Colonial War Memorial Hospital (I hope to be adding photographs to these narratives at a later date!).

I’ll end this here as we have a chance to head into town and try to find a place to email this, pick up some cash and send photos. My aloha and Bula (the Fijian traditional greeting, much like aloha) and Vinaka (thanks) to all who may read this.

David (Tevita in Fijian).

Loloma Foundation Medical Mission, Day One

January 14, 2008 (Posting late due to access issues!)

Suva, Fiji

I am writing at the Suva Motor Inn which we arrived at in the last hour or so. While it is difficult to believe that I have been absent from this country for 12 years, much remains so hauntingly familiar. The moment that I exited the plane the sights, sounds and smells returned to me in a brilliant instant. I have had many of these returns, the memories more numerous each time as the years fall away. The moist air is so gentle, soft and caressing in the warm breezes that play across your skin. Yet in the next moment it can feel stifling, hot, humid and inescapable. I tend toward describing it in a positive vein even while I know it can be and is, uncomfortable. In the end however, I am here, now, in the moment and I am not anywhere else. So I work on the acceptance angle, not only with the weather but also with the acceptance of things I cannot change – like recalcitrant customs officials (more on this later!).

We in the West have sheltered ourselves from the immediacy of our environment so much. Yet none will quite complain quite so quickly as yours truly when the cold seeps and works its way to my bones! Much of this sheltering has been from simple necessity, the biological imperative to survive, to not freeze to death in the cold . . . so that life continues. But for much of the South Pacific the cold is not a life threatening event and when the temperature drops even a bit it is almost comical the amount of clothing that is donned. I remember that after a few years I became that way too. Even today, I feel as though I am extremely sensitive or reactive to cold in relation to others around me.

Before encamping at the Suva Motor Inn we stopped by Saint Vincent DePaul’s Catholic Charity (which does a tremendous amount of excellent work here and around the world). The customs officials had stopped by and have declared we cannot open the three containers (of 2 million dollars worth of medical supplies for distribution around Fiji) and must pay a customs duty based on the value of the goods. Well, you can imagine what this amount could add up to and that is prohibitive, unjust and outside the bounds of what many may consider common decency. In the morning we have to head down to Customs at the wharf to see what can be done about the situation. Evidently there is a new rule as of January 1, 2008 that this law is in effect.

This is one part of what I was trying to address above. It takes an extraordinary amount of patience and fortitude in dealing with this type of occurrence. Talk about trying one’s soul! Clearly someone is trying to benefit by ‘extorting’ money from the Loloma Foundation but all in the guise of the law. The de facto head of government is named Bainimarama. I am not sure what his titular name is, Prime Minister, Commander in Chief . . . because he is the head of the military and this is a military dictatorship no matter what dressing is put on by the ‘chef’. It is an extraordinarily complex web of affairs and history must be consulted in the analytical attempt at understanding this situation. That is beyond my scope here and certainly beyond most reader’s interest.

I have no internet access at this writing. I saw several internet cafés in Suva so I hope to be able to upload these blog entries and some photos of our adventures. The people of Fiji remain helpful and welcoming as ever – perhaps that explains the depth of my passion for the place and people even though it can drive me quite mad. For now though I go to take a cold shower, drink a cold beer and recover from an unplanned extended journey. Our flight from LAX was delayed seven and a half hours! There is another example of basically having all choices taken from you and being forced to accept the inevitable – excellent practice and reintroduction to the vicissitudes of travel (and being in the South Pacific!). Ah, if only I could share more of the sounds, sights, smells and feelings of this place I called home for two and a half years.

Thanks for reading – Aloha and Bula Vinaka to all.

David

Human forklift

Unloading two forty foot and one 30 foot containers of $2,000,000
worth of medical supplies. A good time had by all!

Suva Motor Inn

A great place to stay in Suva, Fiji.

Why I am here and love this region

I am sitting here at dinner with the former ambassador from the Solomon
Islands to the United Nations. Why leave this place?

Tackling issues of International development, issues of major impact
at the most basic level of human needs. This is our conversation and
one I do not wish to leave.

Vinaka,

David

www.davidmichaelmccullough.net
davidmccullough@gmail.com
001 707 758 3358

Off to fiji, 5 am and I . . .

am so happy to still be on the ground at LAX! Time to increase my
medication dose, Fiji time beckons. Mix the kava boys and let's fly
this beast!

Itinerary - in case someone loses it!

I may rent a phone in Fiji if not prohibitive. My US phone number will automatically be forwarded to my grandcentral.com phone number and I will be able to access the message via the web (when I get access that is!). My phone would end up costing US $3.50 a minute so I won't be using that except in an emergency.

Depart Santa Rosa, Saturday, January 12 @ 1525, Alaska Airlines (Horizon) 2469 to LAX
Arrive LAX @ 1659
Depart LAX to NADI, Fiji on Air Pacific 811 @ 2230
Arrive Nadi, Fiji at January 14 @ 0515
Depart Nadi on January 14, 0700 on Air Pacific 7
Arrive Nausori Airport @ 0730, rental car to Suva

Jan 12 – January 20
Suva Motor Inn
Phone 011 679 331 3973
Fax 011 679 330 0381

January 20 - Air Pacific 10 Nausori to Nadi 1030 to 1100
January 20 – 21 Nadi Hotel – still to be decided on as of January 9
January 21 – 27 Navutu Stars Resort, Yageta Island (Yasawa Group of Islands, North Western Fiji)
January 27 – February 4 - on my own.
February 4 – Air Pacific 5810 Nadi to LAX departs 2230
February 4 - Air Pacific 5810 arrives LAX at 1320
February 4 - Alaska Airlines 2470 (Horizon Air) departs LAX 1735, arrives Santa Rosa, 1915

Presenting ourselves Online - to be or not to be?

Aloha . . . I recently read an article about how people present themselves online and it brought to mind my own meager efforts at posting. I'll go back to what I said in the beginning, or at least, what I think I said or should have. I am amazed or surprised when someone actually reads this and makes a comment. I actually started this for myself though, to stay in touch with others, mainly known to me. It has put me in touch with old friends and that is a very unexpected and 'unlooked' for treasure. I am grateful for that.

So I try to be honest, to present myself in an unvarnished state for the most part. Being involved in some amount of soul searching these days forces one to examine one's life. I don't want to share the very private parts of my life - I am not sure they matter, nor that they should matter except to me and those who are close to me. Many of us in America live in a media saturated environment, ranted and railed at on all sides by minutiae of detail unwanted and reviled (at least by some of us!). Let us hear a plea for honesty, examination of one's life so that others may learn and either despair or regain hope for a better future for themselves and others. Sometimes we have so little to give, so work hard to give as much as you have and gain in the act of giving.

Now, I better figure out what I am going on about eh?

Leaving in four days for Fiji . . . .

David

Deep in Pluto Lava Tube near Mount Shasta, California

Aloha,

For some reason, I love to be underground. I would not call myself a
spelunker, at least yet. This was taken September of 2007 in Pluto
Lava Tube near Mount Shasta. I was fairly well equipped, overly so
because I am such a neophyte in some waysg but at least I was safe. I
violated a basic rule - never go alone! But as these things go I was
ok, someone waiting for me at the mouth and a fuctioning cell phone
and my fire radio as a backup. Plenty of clothing, food and water for
two days. The cave end was only about two hours back but a fast two
hours back with a lot of scrambling and crawling at times. I hope to
do more. It was so cool! In every way. I felt more alive during it
and afterwards. Thanks for reading,

David

International Medical Corps

Aloha - I touched up my resume with the International Medical Corps last week and just now spoke with someone from Human Resources at their offices in Santa Monica, California. I may have to do a volunteer assignment before I am eligible for a longer term paid assignment. I am willing to do so and made this very clear in my conversation with them. They also suggested contacting other international humanitarian organizations (which I have done) and attempt to gain some experience through that avenue.

This is the classic challenge of needing experience in the field prior to getting into the field you wish entrance to! Agencies want reliability, talent, dependability and assurance that their investment in you will pay off, in short that you will not leave and can handle the stresses inherent to service in the field, be it in a conflict zone or not. I understand this but of course it is frustrating too.

My winter light is fading and rain is coming. Off I go to stack wood, mow lawns and enjoy the waning daylight. My thanks to the opportunities provided my IMC and the people that staff organizations like them.

Thanks for reading, malama pono,

David

New Year Ride

Annandale Park, Santa Rosa, California. Happy New Year and good luck.

Liberal or not too liberal?

Aloha . . . I forget the quote and will look it up but it was perhaps by Churchill (?) who said something about as you get older you get more conservative. I used to think I was very liberal. In comparison to my Aunt Karen in Houston, Texas I am. Compared to many people I am conservative. I think we need a sliding scale. Is it liberal to advocate for universal health insurance?

But I must face facts - I am not as liberal as I think I am or would like to be! I try to be critical in my thinking and of precise nomenclature when I speak. I attempt to be intellectually rigorous in my examination of public policy and other endeavors. I fail a lot and tend to be reactionary, my passions inflame me.

Anyone have leads on websites where you can search for quotes like the one I am thinking of?

Thanks for reading,

D.

Staying in Touch - GrandCentral.com

Aloha . . . in the interest of staying in touch . . . while in Fiji I will have my mobile with me but the roaming charges are $3.49 a minute since ATT has no real agreement with Vodaphone. Data roaming is cheaper.

Note the GrandCentral.com button off to the right. Hit that button and it will connect you with my GrandCentral voice mail and allows you to leave a message. You can also set it to automatically forward the call to any phone anywhere. I used the button and it works well thus far.

I joined GrandCentral.com years ago before it was acquired by Google since I thought it was a great idea - especially since in those days you were not allowed to keep your mobile number if you changed companies. I have a permanent number through GrandCentral that I do not really use that much . . . till now I guess! The beauty of this is that I can forward all calls from my mobile to my GrandCentral number automatically. GrandCentral then saves the message as an email to me and I play it over the net when I get access, either through my mobile or laptop.

I wait for the day when I can use Skype from any phone anywhere. While I was aware of GrandCentral I want to acknowledge and thank David Pogue of the New York Times for prompting my memory on how useful the voicemail to email option is.

So while I am working in Fiji I will not have to pay ridiculous charges for my mobile service and still be able to pick up my voice mail from ATT via the web.

Thanks for reading and if you do call, thanks!

D.