29.6.10

Dispatch from Frankfurt, Deutschland. Spent the day on the A3 autobahn driving South to Frankfurt staying at the Frankfurt City Campground right in the middle of the city. Pitched a big tent and went to some old friends house in Dietzenbach just off highway 661. Christoph is married to a woman from Iowa that grew up only a one hour drive from where my mom grew up in Mason City, Iowa. It's a small village sometimes and I wish people would regard that before they turn to war.

Tomorrow I hope to see Christoph and Regina's parents in the morning. After that a continuation of my trip down memory lane although at this point it's more of a autobahn then a lane!

I left messages with my brother today. No call from him about my mom. Just wish to know the details of how she is even though she has called me. She is out of pain at least so that's good.

Germany, need it be said has changed so much. I can see my street on Google maps but it is no longer a dead end to a field and a World War II bomb shelter at the end of that street. I wonder at the past and all that it contains, memories, people, hopes, dreams, disappointments, wishes, births, death and everything in between. Id love to know what happens beyond my death but am not sure I could stand to be immortal. Too much sadness and regret at watching the centuries pass by, the people you love. It already breaks my heart at times.

Hard to believe I write this from near my childhood home where I last set foot on forty-two years ago. I remember the last drive out of our driveway in our Volkswagen, my red pogo stick lying in the green grass between the two rows of stone for the tires. How vivid but as if in a dream.

What will I find? What will I learn? That you can't go home again like Rosseau? I learned this long ago. My goodbyes only grow more difficult and the sadness of parting more of melancholy suffused with sustained and lasting joy mixed in.

I do not know what I shall see or discover but my journey to this secret place has taught me much.

David

28.6.10

Tomorrow we drive from Bremen to Frankfurt on the autobahn @ 200 kph all the way. Off to see friends and the house Paul and I grew up in from 1965-68 in Florsheim am Main (about 20 minutes E/SE of Frankfurt Airport). No doubt a rush of memories. My car was towed today to the tune of 180 Euros so am calling it a learning cultural experience and sometimes you must decide that it hurts 'good' when the alternative is to whinge. Tschuss!

Fotos are being posted to Picasa online so please drop me a line to get in if interested.

26.6.10

Dispatch from abroad: Bremen, Deutschland, June 26, 2010

Wie Gehts meinen Damen und Herren! Live or semiconscious at 0445 here on Falkenstrasse staying with my friends Benno, Dina, Kai und Taylor. The direct opposite time difference is a bit dodgy but I am having a great time. Reconnecting with old friends first met in Hawai'i in 1990. I have not seen them since about 2005 or 2006 when I had gone back to Hawai'i for our friend Colin Denney's wedding. Never heard from Colin again, sadly enough that his is standard operating procedure although he is a fine person. But, I digress.

Memories of growing up in Germany have come flooding back but many are insubstantial and what I call 'eine kleine kind' or 'little kid' memories. This includes the color and taste of liquorish candies, the smells and sights such as a barge on the River Elbe. I grew up in a small village called Florsheim am Main, South of Frankfurt and West of Wiesbaden. Our street was Landstrasse but I do not know the number. I remember seeing and smelling the paper factory. I remember playing with our friends and the local dare was to run down the stairs to the World War II bomb shelter and touch the doors and make it back up.

Just children then, we had no idea of the cataclysm that had shaped the world and so many of the attitudes of a generation. To us it was nothing and it was only later that I learned of the camps, Auschwitz, Dachau, Bergen-Belsen and the hundreds of others that existed within the sphere of Nazi influence. We Americans like to deceive ourselves into thinking that it could not happen in America, that surely we are better then the Nazi's. But for me, I have seen too much. My mother took my brother and I to a camp and for years, every once in awhile I would have dreams, sometime nightmares of half imagined Nazi's still alive to terrorize me and the people I loved.

To this day I wonder why my mother took us, yet when asked she has a clear answer. She thought we should know. Indeed, that is a very clear lesson . . . that we must never forget. In the broader sense it applies to all evil that is done in the world. I was not damaged by what I saw but to my dying day it will affect me and i think in no small measure has contributed to my own quest to do some good in the world while I walk among you.

We hope to drive to my old home in a few days. I hope we can meet some old friends, hoist a few beers and maintain some tenuous hold on a distant relationship. I am glad I have come, not only to celebrate the ties that bind but also I think so I can do my own remembering. Not only of my own past but to remember it all, to not forget, to deny the naysayers their insane and ignorant quest to deny us all the privilege of knowing evil and the sacrifice made by so many. After all, I take care of many World War II veterans every week while their numbers grow less each day.

I am having a challenge in connecting to my friend's wireless Vodafone network. My iPhone picks up the network, I type in the passcode yet it cannot lock onto it. In this way I hope to post some fotos and other dispatches from Germany and then Turkey in another week. I bought a local phone yet am also having connection issues. calling the US for about five minutes was eight Euros, one Euro being about 1.25 US at this time.

I am missing my friends at work and send them a shout out. It is good to be in Germany again. I called my brave mother yesterday and she once again said she is doing fine and reassured me that I should be here. Yet still, I long to be by her side, doing my Nurse Manly thing for her out of the gratitude I have for doing her Mothering to me for the last 49 years of my life. When she dies, it will be a loss. Yet as so many friends and coworkers said to me . . . Carpe Diem.

For there is no other time but now.

David

24.6.10

Business class from New York to London is something I could get use to quite easily. Kudos to the staff at JFK's American Airlines for an upgrade, their laughter and kindness.

AA178 SFO/JFK/Heathrow/Hamburg

Aloha and halfway to the Big Apple. Once I land I have 55 minutes to wend my way through JFK airport to find my flight to London. I have no checked baggage so anticipate no issues on that end. Not bad for three week trip to Germany and Istanbul really, only a small backpack and a wheeled carry on. I will see my dearest friends in Germany that I knew in graduate school in Hawai'i. They live in Bremen, just outside of Hamburg. I land there about 1800 June 25, 2010, pick up a rental car and spend a week with them. I am very excited, great people and they have two incredible,beautiful children.

It will be interesting to see Germany again after so many years - forty to be exact. I left in 1968 and have only been back albeit briefly. It was only 20 years after the Second World War that I was there and the new enemy then were the Russians. We always seem to manufacture a new enemy to fit the times.

I am exhausted and my mind continuously goes to my mother. Dying of cancer, but not actively or else I would not be making this trip, I admire her so much and she is so brave. It is a choice and she is a great example for me and others. I established three numbers for her and others to call, a San Francisco Skype number, a European mobile number and my regular mobile number. I wrestled with this decision more than many tough calls I have had to make. Initially I was not going to go but my mom even asked me to please go after knowing that I will return instantly if she or my brother and his wife need me. The Doctors encouraged me, my workmates encourage me to so . . . so here I sit at 36,000 feet in total comfort. Only 1.5 hours of sleep in the last 36 hours so soon I will be passing out.

I look forward to what is to come on this trip but still, I miss my mother and I continue to hold her close.

Thanks for reading. Malama pono, a hui hou.

David, signing off from somewhere over America en route to Germany.

21.6.10

My mother lies in the UCSF Emergency Department, dying too slowly by
her courageous estimate. I am reduced to tenacious advocate for pain
meds, imaging, admission, palliative care. But not death and alas, no
dominion over death, not I, not this time. I shall accept it but
begrudgingly initially. Till the woman who bore me embraces it and
death embraces her, it will be a trying journey beset on all
sides by the ravening dogs of war.

So I play many roles, ER Nurse Man, advocate but most of all I yearn
to be just her son and as she slips the surly bonds of earth I will
tend to her body and soul. I will clean, dress, feed, comfort, read to
and most of all love her as a son.

Thank you for reading.

David

17.6.10

Istanbul

I'm reading, Istanbul: The Collected Traveler. An Inspired Companion
Guide.

On page xxiic' I am interested in the opinions of people who want to
know (italics) Istanbul, not just see (italics) it.


That takes a lifetime but I'm going to give it a try for two weeks.

Cheers,

D

David McCullough

16.6.10

Listening to NPR about the man Tom Debaggio (sp?) with Alzheimers and
my thoughts turn to my mother who is dying and my own fate. This is
not about me, not at all but I'm scaredcfor my mother and for myself
too. I'm alone albeit with a strong and loving network of friends. But
I have no family or children of my own and my heart fills with what
might have been. I'm still so lucky and blessed no matter what.

Aloha,

David

15.6.10

I walked to the oceans edge tonight and yearning, reached for warmer environs.


Caught in the tug and tow of life and deaths endless pull. My mother
lies awake, her thoughts so fresh and full of youth but also of her
impending death.


I comfort her as well as I can but I fear for us and I long for
comfort too. Now, it is my turn on earth to give and in turn be given this
gift of life, then death with my mother who is loved so much.


David